It sits
on what's left of the hill like an old woman waiting to die, thinking
about the good times she had with the boys when she was young.
The boys will come and mourn her tonight: The old ones, who still care
for her, and came back to visit on pleasant autumn afternoons. The younger
ones, who are with her now, but probably won't realize what she meant to
them until she's gone.
They will come and give her a living funeral, talking and drinking
under white tents in parking lots that are not theirs, remembering all the
good times while trying not to get too much dust from the gravel on their
nice shoes and slacks.
When they are done, they will take what they can from her and move on
to something new - something that does not smell like impending death.
And when the end comes, she will be almost as alone on that hill as she
was when it started, right up until the second they knock her down and
take her and the rest of the hill away.
For the men of the UA chapter of Delta Kappa Epsilon, the wrecking ball
that ends the life of the Capstone's oldest fraternity house in May will
kill a family member - a matriarch who can no longer survive as the campus
changes around her, but will not be sent into oblivion without being
reminded by her boys what she meant to them.
"It's like losing a 90-year-old grandmother," said John
McNeil, who lived in the house for two years while he was a UA student
between 1975 and 1979. "We're losing that. We're not losing any of
the heritage or anything like that - that will go with us in the new
house. We're just losing the 'Mansion on the Hill.' "
McNeil heads a group of DKE alumni behind efforts to relocate the
fraternity after the mansion meets its end May 23 to make room for a new
plaza and grand entrance for an expanded Bryant-Denny Stadium.
Ground will be broken on a new house across the street in August as the
old mansion, and the hill it stood on for 90 years, is replaced by
red-brick sidewalks and bronze statues of Alabama's national champion
football coaches Wallace Wade, Frank Thomas, Paul "Bear" Bryant
and Gene Stallings.
While the house is being built, the DKEs will be centered in a Bryce
Lawn apartment building on the east side of campus next year. A 3,000-foot
temporary dining and meeting hall with restrooms and a kitchen on 18
wheels will be deposited next to the their temporary home.
Losing the mansion was the last thing many of the DKEs wanted, McNeil
said, but no one fights football at the University of Alabama and wins -
especially if it grew up in your back yard.
"We wanted to fight it and fight it and fight it, but we knew it
wasn't good for us and it wasn't good for the University," he said.
"We're strong supporters of the athletics. The athletics have known
how hard it is for us to move."
There first
The mansion was there first - years before Wade put football on the
road to being a religion in Alabama; more than a decade before Bryant took
his first snap in an Alabama uniform for Thomas and generations before
Stallings ever set foot on campus.
It was born on then University Avenue in 1916 in a time when most
students and alumni were wary of the Capstone's greek system, according to
a March historical survey of the DKE house. Survey author Thomas Shelby
writes that many independent men on campus complained that the greeks were
a "self-constituted aristocracy" that snobbed them from campus
politics and athletics. In 1915, a bill banning greek organizations from
state schools was barely defeated by the Alabama Legislature.
But George Denny, the University's most prolific president, wanted that
aristocracy on campus, instead of deposited in rental houses around
Tuscaloosa, to make their lives healthier and more intertwined with the UA
community. Phi Gamma Delta built its chapter house on campus in 1914, and
soon many fraternities, including DKE, had planted their homes along the
west section of University Avenue.
The "Mansion on the Hill" nickname came soon after the DKEs
emigrated from their rented house on Queen City Avenue, because, other
than the mansion and the hill, there was little else save a road, a field
and a cemetery across the way.
As the mansion sat through the 20th century, football and the rest of
the University slowly encroached on its territory. Many fraternities
plopped their mansions along University, though many ended up on the east
side of campus by the end of 1960s and '70s when New Row came together,
Shelby writes. Denny Stadium opened in 1929 with 12,000 seats and kept
finding ways to get bigger every few decades, finally taking on Bryant's
name in 1975.
On an island
Now the mansion's surrounded, holed up. The stadium grows larger and
more looming behind its back. Work on the plaza and impending doom digs
closer to its face.
Most of the hill is now a brown manmade chasm waiting to be filled with
sod, shrubbery red brick and streetlights.
"It's the 'Mansion on the Island' now," McNeil said.
"You didn't realize how big that hill was until the hill was
gone."
It's harder to get the boys to come spend time with the house now -
even for dinner. Stadium construction has taken their parking away and the
house has seen much better days.
Only a little more than 10 or so members still live in the house. Some,
like David Hawley, have moved out since January because of the
construction. They're tired of waking up to find their parking lot is
replaced with piles of gravel and the cacophony of the machines gnawing
through what was once their front yard.
"When they were digging up the promenade or whatever, it was just
right there," said Hawley, a junior majoring in real estate finance,
who moved out in February. "It always seemed like every day they
would dig up a water line or a gas line or something. One day I couldn't
take a shower because the water was off."
The cruel consequences of age and hard living have set in. Her once
elegant looks are wrinkled, dented and worn, her insides failing.
Handcrafted door frames hang tentatively over bedroom entrances. Mildew
scars, thought to be from a poor attempt to do laundry that ended with
soapy water cascading down the house's front stairwell, rot away in the
dining hall ceiling.
"This house is like a really fine antique," said Beau
Fleming, a DKE member and a senior majoring in health studies. "It's
kind of sad to have to do anything."
Many facelifts
Operations have kept the house looking fresh and alive, the biggest of
which was in 1962. The mansion was gutted and remade, according to
Shelby's historical survey, as its kitchen was expanded and its
second-floor sleeping porch, a room full of bunk beds where every member
slept, was converted to several cramped bedrooms to which two men were
assigned. The rooms are private now.
The house paid a price to look modern, however. Shelby writes that the
1962 renovations were "tactless" and killed much of what made
the house distinctive at the time, like Venetian gable windows and a
latticed porch. The operation also tacked on fire escapes and window air
conditioning units that were "unsightly," according to the
survey.
There were minor surgeries performed before and after the 1962
renovation and the 1970 addition of a ballroom. Problems would be repaired
and walls would be repainted every year before school began to keep the
house fresh and strong - until this year, McNeil said.
With the mansion acquiring new afflictions every day, it has become
harder to justify each procedure meant to ward off a death that is so
close, said Gwen Burt, 69, DKE's house mother since 1998.
"Toward the end, you have to try not to spend money on the sink
and stove," she said. "That's not the attitude you have, though,
when the old people are coming back one last time."
'Can't go back home'
The old boys will be back tonight for one of the DKEs' most infamous
traditions, "Undertaker's Ball." The event, started in 1957, is
a living funeral for a DKE member, a "dead man" chosen by means
cloaked in stock fraternity secrecy.
After an extravagant funeral procession, the chosen DKE member is
eulogized by a "preacher," one of his fraternity brothers, while
he does his best corpse impression. At some point, there's a fraternity
party.
Tonight there will be a funeral band, there will be a mule-drawn
carriage, there will be a procession, but no dead man eulogized - only the
Mansion on the Hill. Men who pledged DKE as far back as the 1930s will
return to say kind words about the mansion and the times with it.
In all, McNeil said, about 900 to 950 alumni - and dates - are expected
to flood into the house and pack tents set up in the few neighboring
parking lots that the stadium construction hasn't completely eaten up.
It's appropriate, however, given the impression the event leaves on
many DKEs. McNeil said the 1979 ball, in which he was the dead man, was
his favorite experience with the house.
But the house is also reminds him of when Alabama rarely lost a
football game, or when the DKEs defied the pale blanket of snow that
covered the campus by lighting a bonfire in the house's front yard.
Another alumnus, Bill de Shazo, a UA student and DKE member from 1974
to 1978, said the event left an impression on him as well, especially the
awe it left him in his freshman year.
He related mourning the house to mourning his late father.
"Kind of an empty, hole in the gut kind of thing," de Shazo
said. "It's kind of like moving from your hometown or something -- a
'can't go back home' kind of thing."
But the event is as much a reaffirmation for the fraternity's plans for
their house's $5 million rebirth across the street as it is a tentpole for
nostalgia, McNeil said. The fraternity is in the "quiet phase"
of the fundraising for the new house. A public campaign will begin during
Homecoming in the fall.
Undertaker's, however, is not a fundraising event, McNeil said.
To protect the memories attached to the mansion, the house has been
dressed up like a corpse being made up for a funeral, McNeil said. Gallons
of paint have been used to cover up the cosmetic indiscretions caused by
age and DKE actives.
Active members don't have the same attachment to the house of their
predecessors. Two weeks ago, one of those indiscretions included jet black
graffiti spray-painted on the second floor's palm green walls.
Warding off such abuse has been harder with the mansion crumbling
around them, said Miller Terry, a DKE junior majoring in finance. He said
fraternity leadership that would once fine members for breaking spindles
on the house's staircase has been lax in recent months.
"We've treated this house like an amusement park," said
Richmond Collinsworth, a DKE freshman also in finance. "We think we
can do anything since it's coming down."
But Hawley said many members have been nicer to the dying house than
most would think.
"You'd think everyone would be throwing stuff through the
windows," he said. "But it's an old friend. Nobody's really
abused it. You're going to have some people who want to mess it up
sometimes.
"But there have not been any excessive or regular abuses,
considering, you know, the house is about to have a wrecking ball through
it."
Still, active members don't have the same attachment to the Mansion on
the Hill because their mansion hasn't been built yet, said Stuart Parnell,
a DKE sophomore in finance. Their house won't have mildew in its dining
hall or the stink of a nursing home.
"We are going to have a nice house, we're going to have nicer
facilities," he said. "Losing the history behind the house,
yeah, it's a big deal, but it's something we're going to have to deal
with.
"It's not going to be as big of a deal to us because we're still
here."
The new house is needed, said Robert Allen, a DKE senior majoring in
political science. He said he sees the demolition and construction of the
house not so much as the euthanasia of an old friend, but something the
fraternity needs to compete as a business, to keep getting the opportunity
to invest in new members.
Especially now, when other fraternities are building or making major
changes to their houses, and the UA administrators instituting a mandatory
freshman housing policy while the University turns out attractive, new
apartment-style dormitories.
When he leaves the Mansion on the Hill, Allen said, "I want to
take the No. 3 off the door, but that's probably it.
"A couple of thieves can come in here and walk out
empty-handed."
Rebirth
While current members may not take much from the old building, the
house won't be forgotten in the design of the new mansion. Architectural
illustrations look like God will reach down and snatch up the old house,
heal its wounds and place it carefully across the street with new wings
grafted on.
In reality, the old will be grafted onto the new. Before they let the
mansion die next month, they will cut out pieces of its fireplace, mantle
and chapter room so they can be transplanted into its successor, McNeil
said. Five thousand maroon bricks from the house will be gathered up and
used to build a patio behind the new house. Whatever's left will be sent
to the most nostalgic alumni, said Moe Cook, a member of the DKE house
staff.
But tonight, they will take care of her, honor her, tell her how much
they will miss her when she's gone and make her final arrangements.
Athletics director Mal Moore will present the marker that will be
placed in the plaza to denote where the Mansion on the Hill once stood,
McNeil said. She will be alone when she dies. But when she is gone,
hundreds, thousands will pass by her grave.
Sending the house out with Undertaker's is appropriate not just because
of its place in the UA DKE chapter's history, de Shazo said, but the
theology of the event that he theorized comes from its membership's
historically strong roots in Mobile and New Orleans, where death is
celebrated like any other Mardi Gras.
"For me, it's just the concept of death and mourning, and in kind
of a twisted way, it's a religious experience," he said.
"Although there's a certain amount of drunkenness involved in all
that, in its own strange way, it's kind of like an Easter."
When the wrecking ball ends the DKE house in a few weeks, the Mansion
on the Hill will experience the belief at the heart of Easter. There will
be a temporary death, then a rebirth.
Just on the other side of the street.